Saris Bike Rack

How do I connect a bicycle rack to a road bike that doesn't have the drilled holes on the frame?

Seat post mounted one's are two weak for touring.

Public Comments

1. Well drill the holes.
2. Take it to a bike shop
3. Do Not Drill Holes in your bike. If the bike can't be secured you might need a new rack.
4. Whatever you do, ignore the advice to drill holes in your frame. That is a recipe for disaster. In any case, you need to buy a clamp on type frame for your bike. Some frames are made to mount to rack fittings. Others come with clamps that affix to the seat stays. My wife has used a clamp on type rack for years and it is quite secure. Ask at your bike shop for some recommendations.
5. I hate to disagree with my colleagues but there is a safe way to drill those holes. It is done daily in shops across the world. If you are going to be touring there is no substitute for having those holes. The problem is that you can't just grab the drill and have at it then hope to have the rack hold. There are 2 options here and neither are very palatable, but here goes. This is a bit long... Buy a bike that is intended for touring. They have the proper fittings, or install the fittings yourself or have them installed. Here is how to do it. This assumes that you have threaded holes in the dropouts- near the wheels- to hold the bottom of the rack and a modicum of mechanical aptitude: You'll need: A good ruler laid out in metric (or multiply english measurements by 25.4); A good drill and some drill bits; A centerpunch; A roll of masking tape; A sharp pencil A pop rivet gun Pop rivets that have 5mm or #6-32 internal threads 1) Measure from the center of the hole on the dropout (not the axle slot) up both seat stays to 420mm (about 16.5"). Make a small mark on the side of the frame. Place a piece of masking tape OVER the mark. 2) Repeat step one again, but make the mark on the tape, on the outside of the seat stays (where the rack will be mounted). 3) Centerpunch the mark. 4) Drill 1/16" (2mm) holes at the centerpunches. Drill only through the one wall, not all the way through the tube. 5) Increase the hole diameters to 1/8", using a 1/8" (4mm) drill bit. 6) Increase the hole diameters to suit the pop rivets.. read the box and use the correct size! 7) "Clean" the holes of any burrs. This is easiest with a sharp knife (I use an old Boy Scout knife). Do not open up the holes any farther 8) Install a rivet into each hole as directed with the rivet gun. 9) Touch up the finsh around the rivets, allow to dry completely. 10) Install the rack using proper bolts. If you end up using 6-32 inserts then be aware you'll need 5mm (water bottle cage) bolts for the dropouts and 6-32 for the inserts. If your dropouts do NOT have existing holes for a rack you are out of luck. NEVER drill holes into dropouts unless you have actual experience doing so. Good luck!
6. Well - I would take the bike to a local bike shop and ask them if it's even possible - but any machine shop (or do it yourself if you are daring - can drill and tap holes for the supports. I did that on my bike and after a little paint it looks like it was done at the factory. A Tap and a drill bit are very inexpensive and it's not terribly difficult to do yourself. But your local bike shop can tell you if it's possible. Without looking at the frame I can't tell if it's an option for you.
7. I had a rack and it had two possible installations. When eyelets are drilled in the bike, then no problem. Otherwise it had little clips that fastened around the seat stays that screwed to the rack. It was a very solid and stable setup. I believe it was a Rhode Gear brand but I forget now. Drilling holes in your frame seems crazy to me compared to just using the included HW with a rack to attach it. At best it is a lot of work. Also it depends what material your frame is made out of whether you can drill holes.
8. There is a very simple and practical solution, which will work perfectly for light to medium weight touring (in other words any ride you would do on a racing bike). Heavy touring will require a dedicated bike! Use good quality 'P' clips on the rear stays (upper and lower) to fasten the carrier. Wouldn't recommend this for carbon or bonded alloy frames. Most quality bike shops will have these in stock, you will need 4, the diameters required will be determined by your rear stays - take your bike with you to the shop! To see what I mean go to (for illustration only - not a plug for this business) http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=12486 It is always best to go to a good indepenent bike shop with knowledgeable staff, not a bike supermarket! Have a go yourself it is easy! (Don't drill holes in the lower rear stays or ends - it is likely to end in tears!!!)
9. Go to chain reaction and buy this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=14332 It fitted on my bike with ease. Just put tape around your frame to protect it.